Plukka, which specializes in made-to-order jewelry only available online, partnered with the designers Asher Hoffman and Athan Doro of Asher Athan to create a 25 piece collection made entirely via 3D printing in New York. The line, which launches tomorrow, includes diamonds, gold, rubies and all the other precious gems and metals you normally associate with fine jewelery, albeit in this instance put through the 3D printer instead of just the jeweler’s hand. “A lot of people are making printed jewelry…but no one is doing it at the level we are,” the designers point out.
Hoffman and Doro are well-versed in the technology, having “been using printing for about 15 years. We were also using milling & machining, which isn’t such a different technology when you think about it; just more limited in what you can do.” In conjunction with Plukka’s founder, Joanne Ooi, they conceived of this particular collection as a line that could only be made via 3D printing, “that couldn’t really be made otherwise.” To do so, the designers are using a few different printers; which ones, exactly, are a trade secret.
The geometric forms that comprise the results are probably a hallmark of what’s to come. The designers themselves believe that ultimately, the 3D printing process will become a more standard part of the repertoire of fine jewelry creation. “It’s a bit romantic that jewelry making has evolved and not evolved,” Doro and Hoffman point out. “Every method is still being used. Some ways are dying arts that are only passed on from master to apprentice. And, some ways are brand new. One can’t embrace some of it and not all of it.”