New investors have taken an interest in a slew of old brands this year, subsequently revamping a number of forgotten fashion houses. From Courrèges to Cacharel, these labels have gotten new design teams, advertising platforms, and fresh places in the public eye. The latest name to fall by the wayside and get picked back up again is Elsa Schiaparelli, with the perennial fashion muse Inès de la Fressange as a consultant to see the revamp through.
The label closed in 1954, and its revival, at the hands of Tod’s Group owner Diego Della Valle, falls under two trending industry categories. First off, the fact of its rediscovery and forthcoming re-launch is in general keeping with fashion trends. Like Mainbocher and Herbert Levine, recently picked up by the French entrepreneur Arnaud de Lummen, the rights to old names are being taken over and shopped to investors as fast as interested parties can find them. Second, the wave of fashion house histories-turned-museum exhibits is both in itself a rising phenomenon (see: Alexander McQueen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art) and a contributing factor to Schiaparelli’s own revival.
De la Fressange herself noted that it was last spring’s Met Museum show that sparked interest in the brand. Having already been at work on the label for the past three years with Della Valle, the Costume Institute exhibit, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, helped the endeavor move forward much faster. Della Valle, with de la Fressange as a consultant, hopes to announce a designer shortly, and hopefully soon after that, a first collection.